Wednesday, May 23, 2007

the waters kept rising...

Recent events in Uruguay have made the headlines in publications far beyond the country's borders:

"Flooding has caused thousands of people to evacuate their homes in Uruguay after the worst flooding to hit the country for half a century." (http://www.itv.com/news/world_bdd998df33750455b8e0d07e315f5bfc.html)

"(AP) - MONTEVIDEO, Uruguay-Lawmakers on Thursday declared a "national emergency," speeding relief aid to more than 12,000 people left homeless by floods." (http://news.lp.findlaw.com/ap/o/55/05-10-2007/2f360008c36bd48f.html)

"The United Nations is mobilizing a Disaster Assessment and Coordination (UNDAC) team for deployment to Uruguay early next week in the wake of the worst floods to hit the country in half a century." (http://www.un.org/apps/news/story.asp?NewsID=22525&Cr=uruguay&Cr1=)

A topic that comes up in conversation regularly here in Uruguay is that of global warming. I've already mentioned a couple of instances in this blog--a conversation I had with a university student about the melting of Argentina's Perito Moreno glacier; the abundance of butterflies at Iguazú and the now unpredictable wet and dry seasons. But, since my arrival to Uruguay, the issue of global warming had never been placed so directly before my eyes as it was when I visited Mercedes.

Mercedes is a small city of about 40,000 people, situated in southwest Uruguay on the banks of the Rio Negro. I marked it with a little red circle on this map, and I also highlighted the other districts most affected by flooding with a red square (as well as the nearest dam to Mercedes):



Since arriving in Uruguay, I have made several friends who were born and raised in Mercedes. All of them proudly told me the same thing: "Mercedes has the most beautiful promenade in Uruguay." The normally beautiful area running along the Rio Negro is a source of pride for people from Mercedes, and judging by the pictures I've seen, their pride is justified. Unfortunately, pictures are the only images I have of the promenade, since the area immediately surrounding the river was completely under water when I visited.





The small city experienced the worst flooding it had seen since the 1950s earlier this month, just before I visited. Some distance up the Rio Negro, there is a dam, followed by a large lake located in the center of the country. Heavy rains caused the lake's water levels to rise dramatically. When the floodgates were opened, Mercedes felt the consequences.







When I was in Mercedes, the water had already begun to recede. You can see the former water level where the line along this building is:



These people were in the process of moving their belongings back into their homes after the water had receded:



Just before I left Mercedes, the people there received news that the floodgates would again be opened, and the river's level would rise again. Some of the homes and businesses that were most affected by the flooding are owned by the wealthy citizens of Mercedes, and will gradually be rebuilt. Unfortunately, though, many of the homes belonged to some of the city's poorest. Those individuals will be forced to find ways to support themselves and their families as they find a new home, or rebuild the one they had. For information on some of the relief efforts, please visit the links I included at the start of this post. Uruguayans tend to find great pride in their hometowns, and, as a result, many of the individuals who were forced from their homes by flooding refuse to move anywhere else, and insist on remaining in their home city in spite of any risk posed by natural disasters.

There is a commercial I've seen on Uruguayan television that shows images of recognizable parts of the country submerged in water. The beautiful beaches at Punta del Este are nonexistent, replaced by ocean; the historic, cobblestone streets of Colonia del Sacramento have been devoured by the rising tide; the administrative buildings of Montevideo are visited by individuals in rowboats. The producers of the commercial used computer graphics to achieve the images, but their anti-global warming message is clear. Vast, severe flooding that used to occur once every forty years has already struck Uruguay several times this year. People have noticed the change, and their fear, as well as their surprise, is apparent. Predictable wet seasons and dry seasons no longer exist. Seasonal and climatic cycles have been thrown off, producing erratic weather and the consequences that stem from that. Walking along the streets of Montevideo, one is accompanied by a literal cloud of thirty or more mosquitoes, a phenomenon that the locals swear never occurred this season in previous years.

In spite of the flooding, I thought Mercedes was a beautiful little city. I hope, though, that the promenade will be visible the next time I visit, and that I'll be able to walk along it and experience what many residents of Mercedes are so proud of. But the flooding in Mercedes is just the tip of the iceberg. Last night I was looking at pictures of my trip to Patagonia a couple years ago, and it scared me to realize that the next time I see the Perito Moreno glacier, it may be drastically different. I hope it won't be. But I can't help but wonder what other consequences we and our children will face in the coming years, consequences resulting from a force powerful enough to drown cities, and melt ancient glaciers.

Monday, May 21, 2007

back in the south

Hi friends, family, and visitors. Right now I'm writing from Colonia del Sacramento, a small, colonial town opposite Buenos Aires. I'm here for the day visiting a fellow Fulbright recipient. I'll post soon with more information and some photos of my time here.

Actually, the reason I came down here from Salto this weekend was to apply for a Brazilian visa in Montevideo. In order to travel to Brazil, US citizens need a passport, passport photos, a purchased airline ticket that proves they will be leaving Brazil, financial proof that they can afford the trip and won't be stranded in Brazil, and about $150. Bringing along all those things, I visited the Brazilian consulate in Montevideo last Friday, and within 30 minutes my application was approved. They wanted to give me a visa for only the two weeks of July break, but, with a little begging, I convinced them to give me a visa valid for the maximum amount of time, 180 days.

I have already purchased a flight to Rio de Janeiro on July 2nd, and I plan to also visit Salvador in the northeast before leaving Brazil on July 17th.

Although my visa was approved, I still had to leave my passport at the consulate. Since the office doesn't open again until tomorrow, I have been allowed a few days to enjoy Montevideo, and to make this side-trip to Colonia. It's been a great, laid back weekend, filled with tango music, beautiful sunsets, morcilla, molleja, and chorizo, and street manifestations. I'll post an update with pictures soon.

I have a lot to share with you all. I've decided to start making my posts shorter in an effort to make it easier for me to update and avoid procrastination. Over the next week or so I'm planning to write updates on my visit to Mercedes, a small town here that is severely flooded; on emigration in Uruguay, an interesting topic that I have discussed with some of my students at the university (Liz, Holly, and I will be giving a presentation on immigration in the US later this week, and, in the meantime, we've been leading discussions on emigration in Uruguay); on my trip to Montevideo and Colonia this weekend; and on my decision to change the focus of my research project here. Actually, I'll go ahead and write about that now...

As I read more papers and information related to my original research project--the incorporation of the Tupamaros into Uruguay´s political system--I soon discovered that my exact thesis had already been covered extensively not once, but twice. Mr. Charles Guy Gillespie wrote a wonderfully intelligent 300-page book on the topic that was published by the Cambridge University Press, and just yesterday I discovered (and bought) a book written by an Uruguayan author on exactly the same topic.

At the same time that I was discovering my research topic was more exhausted than 'Fergalicious,' I noticed an interesting phenomenon here related to the isolation and discrimination against gays in Uruguay. In a country that is proudly secular and separated from the Church, I found this especially interesting and troubling. I also found that Mr. Charles Guy Gillespie hadn't written a 300-page book on the topic. More importantly though, I heard from several Uruguayans who strongly encouraged me to pursue the topic, emphasizing that they--and Uruguay in general--had been silent concerning discrimination against gays in the country for too long.

I'm not entirely abandoning my old topic, though. I have some incredible interviews lined up with former Tupamaros that I still plan to take advantage of. Plus, the two topics are not mutually exclusive. The Tupamaros, who, historically, emphasized the protection of individual human rights, are now in power in Uruguay. In spite of their rhetoric, though, many people feel that the party is failing severely on their various promises, including their commitment to individual human rights. I plan to study this theme by specifically looking at the experience and treatment of homosexuals in Uruguay.

If you have any good sources (websites, books, articles, friends who wrote theses) on the topic, please send them my way!

I think that's all for now. I´m going to be updating again soon, with photos, upon my return to Salto. Good night!

Monday, May 7, 2007

While looking through the last post, I realized I forgot to mention the uniforms the kids wear at school. All the children in public school in Uruguay wear the same uniform, which consists of a white robe with a big blue bow on the front. The bow is called a "moña." I've been told that, traditionally, the uniform, including its white and blue colors, signified the importance and presence of democracy in Uruguay. I'm not sure how much that tradition persists, but, to me, the uniform really just means that I spend a lot of time straightening robes and tying big blue bowties. The kids don't seem to mind, though.

"Andan con el termo bajo el brazo"

Since coming back to Salto, time has started to fly by. So much so that I hadn't realized it's already been a couple weeks since I last updated my blog...

Time's been flying by for a few reasons, the first of which is that I'm becoming more and more comfortable in Salto. Liz, Holly, and I moved from the hostel we were staying at since we needed a place with more space. Contrary to what I had hoped, living in a hostel didn't provide many opportunities to meet new people, since the common areas were rarely used. Instead, I was left with a small room with see-thru curtains. Now, I am living a posh lifestyle in the penthouse of a nice hotel located right in the center of downtown. The room is, by local standards, amazing--we have a kitchen, dining room, living room, bathroom, and two bedrooms. My room has a queen-size bed and a window the size of my wall. Since the temperature is usually nice, I leave the windows open at night and, in the morning, wake up to the sound of people bustling in the streets below. Everything is nearby, from a great restaurant/coffee shop across the street to a theater next door.

The other reason time has been passing so quickly is that I'm quickly making friends with the locals. The social scene here revolves around a drink that everyone who has visited knows intimately, called mate (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yerba_mate). The Argentines love it, and they say that the only people who drink more mate than they do are the Uruguayans. And it's true. People here walk around with a gourd filled with yerba in one hand, and an enormous thermos under their other arm (or, as the Argentines say, the Uruguayans "andan con el termo bajo el brazo"). Signs posted outside lecture halls read "Inside the auditorium it is prohibited to smoke, or drink mate." During my first week here, I tried to break into the mate drinking culture by purchasing a gourd with John Lennon's face carved onto it, surrounded by the word "Uruguay." Not a popular move with the locals, who tell me I need to get a "real" mate ASAP. In the weeks that followed, I've learned how to cure the gourd, and how to prepare the mate. Lately, I've been drinking it several times a day, not because I like the taste, but because it's just what you do when you spend time with the locals. It's been wonderful growing closer to the people who live here--one friend (an English teacher at a high school here) offered to give me private Spanish classes; another friend invited me to visit her hometown, Mercedes, in southern Uruguay next weekend. It seems like every day I'm invited to this or that park, or to a concert, or to sit on the bank of the river and watch the sunset. Life is tranquilo.

For this update, I finally have some pictures of my students at the public school. I took these during "recreo" one day last week:







Trying to take a photo during a thumb war...





These are a few of my first graders. The girl in the middle had some boiling water spilled on her hand at home, and would quietly sob to herself several times every day. It made me feel terrible, but I think she's doing much better now.



This picture really captures the mood of the school--the kids are all happy and having a good time, while the teachers are constantly trying to get them under control. The teacher on the right had no idea that I was taking a photo and that the kids were responding to me:



I'm really having a great time at both the university and the public school. Just today I gave a lesson to a class of fifth graders on my own, which went extremely well. I've already been invited to teach another lesson tomorrow morning.

I'm wishing you all the best, including a wonderful Mother's Day! More updates coming soon!